Bonnie Cashin is widely credited as a pioneer of "layering" in American fashion. Before Cashin, a woman's outfit was typically conceived as a single, rigid silhouette. Cashin, however, designed with a philosophy she called "dressing to live." She recognized that modern women were constantly moving between different environments—from brisk outdoor commutes to centrally heated offices, or traveling across different climate zones on airplanes.
To accommodate this, Cashin created modular components: thin knit turtlenecks, sturdy leather vests, canvas tunics, and voluminous "Noh" coats. These garments were designed to be mixed, matched, and literally peeled off as the temperature or activity dictated. This approach was highly textural, often mixing contrasting materials like soft cashmere with heavy suede. Layering wasn't just a styling trick; it was a deeply functional approach to modern living.
In this lab, you will analyze Cashin's approach to the modular wardrobe. Use the Mirador viewer below to explore examples of her layered ensembles or sketches showing multiple garments worn together. Focus on how the pieces interact: look at the contrasting textures, the necklines, and the voluminous shapes that allow garments to fit over one another. You will copy the manifest of an item, paste it into the Cropping Tool, and extract a specific detail that illustrates this layering concept.
Use the embedded Mirador viewer below to view the items. Zoom in to look closely at where different garments meet, such as a collar over a sweater, or a vest over a blouse.
You can view items on the Library Digital Collections site by clicking these links. The IIIF manifest URLs are below each item.
https://iiif.library.ucla.edu/ark%3A%2F21198%2Fzz0000layer1/manifest
https://iiif.library.ucla.edu/ark%3A%2F21198%2Fzz0000layer2/manifest
Post your cropped detail showing an element of layering or modular design. Write a brief reflection (100-150 words) addressing the following: How does this specific combination of textures or shapes support the idea of a "modular" wardrobe? How does this design choice reflect a shift in how mid-century women were interacting with their environments?
Post by (DUE DATE)
You are encouraged to view, read, and respond to posts by your peers. Respond to a classmate: Do you see elements of Cashin's modular, layered approach in how we dress and navigate the world today?
Interact by (DUE DATE)